Frank Lloyd Wright remains a giant in 20th century American design, celebrated for his contributions to organic architecture. Eight of his buildings have been recognized by UNESCO as examples of world heritage that have “outstanding universal value.”
What I celebrate is that his Prairie School style and Usonian homes are uniquely Midwestern. There are only a few architects who hail from this region who became a household name. This era produced Louis Sullivan, whose stylized buildings still stand proudly in the Windy City and elsewhere in middle America (I wrote about one of his jewelbox banks in Grinnel, IA).
Sullivan actually employed Wright as an apprentice for six years, leaving a lasting design impression despite their ultimately contempuous relationship. There are tomes written about Wright’s legacy if you’re inclined, but this CNN article provides a nice introduction if you need a starting point.
My first exposure to Wright was as a child. One of my parents shares the same hometown – Richland Center, WI. On our many visits to family, the route took us directly past the A.D. German Warehouse. This unusual commercial property was in a sad state of neglect in those times, but I could still discern the marvelous cast concrete ornamentation along the roofline. I was so pleased to learn that this site has been rescued and is now open for tours that will support its full restoration.
But I didn’t have to travel out of state as a kid to see a Wright – all I had to do was visit the next town over. Mason City, IA has Wright’s imprint all over it, most notably the Stockman House and the historic district of Rock Glen. But the most prominent example is the hotel, the only one in the world still standing. I viewed this structure every time I visited the adjacent mall growing up. It was in an even sorrier state than the German warehouse, having fallen into a near state of abandonment. I was mesmerized by its ghostly shell, trying to imagine what it looked like in its heyday.
I am so glad that preservationists won out and revived the hotel as the Park Inn. It’s become a hub of activity and new business development in a downtown that was previously drying up. It’s truly a one-of-a-kind experience, and I tell everyone to go stay the night if they’re up in the area.
I am the type of person who happily adds architectural tours to my vacation schedule. 2017 marked the 150th anniversary of Wright, so it was an easy excuse to visit several sites. I was so excited to finally check the Robie House in Chicago off of my sightseeing list.
Located on what is now the University of Chicago campus, this private residence was completed in 1910 and is one of Wright’s most celebrated Prairie style homes. I love all of the details in the living room, right down to the design on the carpet, the globe lighting, and the massive fireplace.
What captivated me the most is the beautiful expanses of glass. Light simply floods into the space. Wright referred to these windows as light screens, and you can see how the eye is drawn to the outside. The cheerful planters add a connection to nature even though the home is in the middle of a metropolis.
The house is also notable for its use of a prow at both ends of the second floor living space. This pointed feature adds a nautical flair to the house, with the private quarters on the upper story resembling a ship’s bridge.
Leaded glass is infused into virtually every room and stairwell, even the kitchen (which I find endlessly amusing that Wright labeled as a “workroom” on blueprints). According to the Frank Lloyd Trust, “Wright designed 175 doors and windows for Robie House of which 163 original casements remain in the house today.”
This house is not in its original condition, its furnishings and architectural details modified over the years. It was impressive in its 2017 state in 2017, and I’ll need to revisit to see how ongoing restoration efforts continue to transform it.
A complete counterpoint to the Robie House is the Walter and Agnes Lowell House at Cedar Rock in Quasqueton, Iowa. If you love architecture and haven’t visited this gem, add it to your summer plans now.
Cedar Rock is one of the most complete Wright designs remaining, including the furniture, window coverings, and dishes. It’s remarkably well preserved and protected as part of a state park. Unlike the Robie House, the Lowell House is a single-story home with a compact footprint. While more utilitarian in design, this 1950 Usonian style house blurs the line between indoor and outdoor living.
The living area, dubbed the Garden Room, has three glass walls, clerestory windows, and built-in planters. It is built for entertaining but cozy enough to enjoy on relaxing evenings. I would love to tour this at night to see the view of the stars.
The dining area has a funky feel to it with this hexagon table, blobs of stained glass, and curated serviceware. There’s a strong mid-century modern vibe to everything.
A hallmark of the Usonian style is the tadpole-shaped layout. The head of the house is the living room and occupies the largest square footage. You have to walk through a closed passthrough the kitchen to access the private areas. Three bedrooms are located off to the right of this hallway while the left side is lined with book shelves. Its intentionally dark, making the signature Cherokee red floors and varnished wood paneling seem to blend into one another.
Even the best virtual tour can’t capture the ambiance of these noteworthy design. I only showed highlights from the Robie and Lowell homes – there’s nothing like going on an hour-long tour with a volunteer guide who loves to answer questions. At least in the Midwest, many Wright sites are also affordable or even free to tour. It’s great knowing that your admission ticket goes right back into preserving these pieces of history.
I’ve had the great joy of touring the interiors of nine sites, including Taliesin (Spring Green, WI) and Taliesin West (Phoenix, AZ), FLW Studio and Home (Chicago), Burham Block (Milwaukee, WI), Hollyhock House (LA), Lamberson House (Oskaloosa, IA). Honorable mention to the exterior of Monona Terrace in Madison.
Left on my bucket list: Stockman House (Mason City, IA), SC Johnson Administrative Building and Wingspread (Racine, WI), Seth Peterson Cottage (Baraboo, WI), Lindholm Service Station (Cloquet, MN), and the Rookery (Chicago).
Architecturally yours,
Jennie M. Morton
All photos personal unless otherwise indicated.
